A few of you have been asking me to explain how I burn my figures so this post should answer some of those questions. While we won't be doing a lot of burning I think you can get the general idea of whats involved.
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I use a Burnmaster system as I can use any type of pen with it. I used to have a Detail Master but found that replacing the tips got quite expensive over time. With the Burnmaster you can take advantage of the replaceable tips which are fairly cheap and you only need one handle. I wrap the end of the pen with a little extra heat protection as it gets hot if you use it a lot. The important thing is to make sure your tip is sharp to get the best result. Again, the Burnmaster tips seem to take a lot of sharpening before they wear out.
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The last step prior to painting is to run your carving through the Sand-O-Flex brushed back sander. This is one of the most important pieces of equipment in my shop. I use it constantly for a variety of things. I actually have two sanders, one for the carving and one with a heavier grit paper for all the other times I need to sand something. If you have a few extra bucks I'd suggest seriously consider buying one of these. Mine are installed on a couple of old electric motors and permanently mounted on my work counter. Here is the website where you can find them along with all sorts of interesting sanding supplies: www.key-abrasive.presys.com. For the carving I use the 320 Grit Slashed Glue Insert Part No. 12060. For normal use the 180 Grit Slashed Glue Insert Part no. 12058 works fine. Make sure you specify the "Slashed" insert as this give you the contour sanding that you're after. I think the unit comes with an adaptor for your drill but if you want to mount it to a motor you'll have to buy an additional adaptor depending on the size of the motors shaft. Tell them Lynn Doughty sent you!!!
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There are more photos in the Gallery and comments are welcome.
Lynn, Thanks for sharing,I was wondering how you did that.I got a question.I am a big 3 stooges fan,and have tried to carve the guys once before when I first started(firewood).Is it possible to carve the hair like Larry Fine has and make it look good?
ReplyDeleteJason Gillam
Festus Mo
I have not yet tried the burning technique. Specifically, what does it do for you? Is it just an improved method for detailing or does it do more than that?
ReplyDeleteCarvin' Tom
My you've been busy!! It's all amazing work. That is a rather unique haircut on Goin' Courtin'! I've been away at a seminar for over a week and I missed checkin' your blog to see all the neat things you do. One of your staunchest admirers here in KC, Todd Ramsay, is moving to North Carolina, but I'm sure he will still be following your blog there. We will miss him here though. Thanks for all you do on your blog. It's fantastic! See you at Dayton if you are going this year. Jim Willis, KC, MO
ReplyDeleteJames: I think you could use the technique I used on the Rodeo Clown. I used my Dremel and a small teardrop shaped Kutzall bit and just pressed it into the wood as I worked around the hair. When painting make sure you soak the hair area real good so the paint is pulled down into all those depressions.
ReplyDeleteCarvin' Tom: Burning between the colors stops any bleeding caused by the wet on wet technique I use. That way the colors stay clean and crisp.
ReplyDeleteThanks for tips.How many days do you monitor your postings for questions?Arnie
ReplyDeleteLynn,
ReplyDeleteThanks for the info on the burning. I didn't know it had that benefit.
If you are at a loss for things to blog about any time soon, a discussion of the "wet on wet" technique would be much appreciated, too.
Keep up the good work. Have you ever thought about pulling all this good stuff into a book?
Carvin' Tom
HELLO LYNN;
ReplyDeleteThanks for the info.you have taken the time to blog.,and for sharing what equipment you use.
Like to see blog. on making a wagon.
As always "YOU MAKE MY DAY".
GORDON-Boise,Idaho